Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Nova Scotia - Peggy's Cove and Bluenose II


Though we have had a lot of rain and the day looked a bit cloudy, we decided to take the Lighthouse route over to the town of Mahone Bay where the narrow streets are lined with a unique collection of studios and galleries of some of Canada’s finest artists and craftspeople, specialty shops, a pub, restaurants and cafes. The three waterfront churches form one of the most photographed scenes in Nova Scotia. It was cool and crisp and everything looked breathtaking.

From Mahone Bay, the lighthouse route continues to Lunenburg, one of Nova Scotia’s most historic and beautiful towns. Its colorful waterfront, narrow streets and captivating architecture radiate the flavor of the town’s seafaring heritage. The early settlers of 1753 were primarily farmers, but they quickly turned to the sea for their livelihood, building a world-class fishing and shipbuilding industry. At the turn of the century, Lunenburg’s schooner fleet sailed the Grand Banks, competing with the fleets of New England to bring home the abundance of cod. In Old Town Lunenburg, dozens of historic buildings and homes dating back to 1760 have been beautifully maintained. The streets still follow the original town plan of 1753.

Beginning the early hours of November 1, 2003, fire ravaged St. John’s Anglican Church of Canada, substantially destroying the building. Undaunted by the destruction, the parishioners decided to restore the church. With financial help from friends around the world and the skills of local craftspeople and artists, the church was reopened for worship on June 12, 2005.

One of the attractions on the wharf is the Bluenose II. On March 26, 1921, Smith & Rhuland’s launched the fishing schooner Bluenose. At 258 tons, she was the largest schooner ever launched in Lunenburg. Although built primarily to challenge the Americans who had won the first series for the International Fisherman’s Trophy, she also had to pay her own way as a working fishing vessel. In 1921, under command of Capt. Angus Walters of Lunenburg, she defeated the Gloucester, Maine schooner, Elsie, and successfully defended her title four times between 1922 and 1928. Each time she had to defeat other Canadian challengers in order to earn the right to race against the Americans. By 1942, she had outlived her usefulness as a fishing vessel and was sold to the West Indies Trading Company. She was lost in a storm off the coast of Haiti in January, 1946. Bluenose’s legacy lives on with her depiction on a stamp issued in the 1930’s , on the Canadian dime, and in Bluenose II, a replica also designed and built by the same folks who built Bluenose. Bluenose II serves as the Nova Scotia sailing ambassador and a symbol of Lunenburg’s great seafaring heritage.

Once finished with Lunenburg, we headed back over to Peggy’s Cove to get a better look at everything. The picturesque setting and lighthouse are among the most photographed spots in Canada. A romantic folk tail tells how the cove got its name. “Young Peggy was traveling to Halifax to meet her fiance when the ship she was on foundered on the rocks. She was rescued by local folk and as visitors went to see her, they would say they were going to see Peggy of the Cove”.

The land becomes more rugged and barren, and granite boulders and rocky outcroppings create a landscape of sea carved beauty. Fishermen were inspired to make their permanent home here because of the sheltered cove which offered close proximity to large populations of fish in the St. Margaret’s Bay and a safe place to land their catch. In 1811, six fishermen and their families became the first residents of Peggy’s Cove, receiving a land grant of 800 acres from King George III. More families came in the years that followed and the community took shape. Residents built sturdy houses around the cove, later adding a schoolhouse in 1839, a lighthouse in 1868, and a church in 1850. In these early years, the community was self sufficient. There was a general store and a post office. Families raised livestock and a few crops despite the thin soil.

The graceful lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove sits high upon the smooth wave-worn granite of the coast. The lighthouse was first built in 1868 and consisted of a wooden house topped by a beacon. Each evening the lighthouse keeper lit a kerosene oil lamp magnified by a silver plated mirror creating the red light which marked the eastern entrance to St. Margaret’s Bay and guiding the fishermen into the cove. In 1914 an octagon-shaped lighthouse built of concrete and reinforced steel, standing nearly 50 feet high, replaced the old structure and is the lighthouse we see today. The old lighthouse keepers dwelling remained next to the lighthouse until it was damaged by Hurricane Edna in 1954. The lighthouse was used until 1958 when it became automated. Several changes have occurred over the years including the switch from a red light to a white light then to a green light in the late 1970’s. During the summer months, the lower level serves as the village post office from where visitors can send post cards and letters. Each piece of mail receives a special cancellation mark in the shape of a lighthouse.

While walking around, we noticed this old car which has been making its way across North America. I guess that’s one way to travel. Don’t know what kind of gas it uses, but the sign says "West Coast to East Coast and back home to Oregon!"



Before going home, McKenzie decided she needed some homemade ice cream. After all she’s been climbing granite boulders and walking all over the place, so it’s time for a treat. She selected, with some help from George and me, a scoop of Banana Cardomen, and two scoops of Maple Walnut in a waffle cone. MMMMM – it was surely good!!

Tomorrow will find us heading out and around Nova Scotia. We will most probably keep the truck and trailer on the inside passage as it is a much better road. When we want to see a village or a site that is on the coast, we’ll drop the trailer and head over there in the truck. Many of these roads are very twisty and narrow and we don’t want to get into a spot with the trailer where we can’t turn it around. After a couple of days, we should arrive in the north part of the province and will take the Cabot Trail around before ending up in Sydney to catch the ferry over to New Foundland on August 15th. Hope you’re enjoying our trip as much as we are!

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