Bonjour Quebec City!

Only two days in Quebec and we’ve learned to speak French!!! Well, not really, but we have learned to point a lot. Actually, we were kind of prepared to not like Quebec City. We had heard the usual about the unfriendliness of the folks here and the fact that they would only speak French, but we found all that to be untrue. Most of the people we met in Quebec City were very friendly and those that could speak English did so when they found out we were from the States. They were extremely helpful and we were very pleased with our visit.

On its 400th anniversary, “the cradle of the French presence in North America” opened its door to the world. Artists, performances and magical encounters take center stage in this once-in-a-lifetime get-together. The City of Quebec was founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain and is also known as the cradle of French Civilization in North America. It is the capital of Quebec and seat of the National Assembly. Quebec City has a population of 638,000 of which 95% are French speaking. It is the largest province in Canada and one of the safest regions in North America.

We stayed at Au Sous-Bois campground, about 15 miles outside the city. We were able to drive our truck to the Aquarium, about 7 miles away and then catch a bus into town. The bus cost $2.00 per person and was good for as many rides as you wished during the day. We got off at the Ferry and began exploring Old Quebec City.

It was very beautiful and reminded me of what I thought you would see in Paris. Many small cobblestone streets with shops and outdoor cafes on both sides and lots of flowers.

After walking around for a while, we decided to have an Italian Buffet at one of the outdoor cafes. The food was very good and fortified us for the walking which we would be doing for the rest of the day. The celebrated hotel, Chateau Frontenac, is one of the most photographed spots in old Quebec City.

On top of the Museum of Civilization is a rooftop garden aptly named the Visionaries Garden. It is a garden for everyone that reflects the cycle of life: it is born, blooms, and shares its riches before returning to the earth. Vegetables, herbs and flowers are in abundance along this tiered garden high up above the buildings. It also includes a “talking well”. From the depths of the well, children speak to us about their lives, their fears and their hopes while pictures float at the bottom depicting day and night time images.

Located along side the Louise Basin is Espace 400 which is the official headquarters of the 400th anniversary celebrations. Here the grain silos are located which will act as the backdrop for the astonishing Image Mill, the largest outdoor architectural projection ever created. The grain silos are used as an enormous screen on which to project striking images from the history of Quebec. This project took three years to develop and two months to set up. Though it was cold and windy, George and I were amazed at the technology for this light and sound show, and glad that we braved the weather to experience it.


Right next to Espace 400 is the Ephemeral Gardens. Eleven avant-garde gardens were created by artists and architects from Quebec, Canada, the First Nations, the United States, France, and the United Kingdom using minerals, plants, sounds and smells.

Located on Cap Diamant, the Citadelle constitutes the eastern flank of Quebec’s fortifications and is known as the Gibraltar of America. Construction of the Citadelle began in 1820 and lasted more than 30 years. It is star shaped and is an active military base. It has a changing of the guard but since we had just seen the one at the Legislative building in Ottawa, we didn’t stay for this one. Looking down from the Citadel you can see the broad boardwalk that flows through the lower town.

All in all, we were very pleased with our visit to Quebec City. The bus service was excellent and the city was very quaint and different from anything we had seen previously. It is well worth a visit. George especially enjoyed lounging around with Mr. Moose.

We are now heading to the Gaspe peninsula in Quebec and will be there for at least a week. From there, we will be entering New Brunswick. We’re not sure what to expect once again on this adventure as we will be hugging the coastline, but at the first opportunity, we’ll update the blog so you can share our trip with us. Til then, stay healthy and happy

Montreal and "Smoked Meat" Sandwiches

We pulled into Camping Alouette RV Park, located about 15 miles from Montreal. We will stay here three nights and had already decided that since Montreal is such a huge city, we would take a Gray Line bus tour to view the city. We chose this park because the bus will pick up in the park and take you down to the Gray Line station. The tour was about $41.00 per person (senior rates) and it was well worth it! We were picked up at 8:30 a.m. and would return to the park around 4:30 p.m.

Montreal has a population of approximately 3,800,000 people within a 55 kilometer distance. The French colonists were the first to arrive in Montreal, followed by the English, the Scottish and the Irish. Today, 80 distinct ethnic communities are represented in its population. It boasts a rather large underground pedestrian network which appears to just be one continuous mall, leading you by any kind of store you can imagine and almost any type of fast food spot. It definitely makes Houston’s underground look pretty pitiful by comparison. George is trying to decide which direction we need to go in the underground tunnel.

One of the first stops on the tour was Notre Dame Basilica.

A stone church was built between 1672 and 1683. It was located right in the middle of Notre-Dame Street. By 1800, many parishioners had to listen to mass in the square in front of the chapel because it was no longer large enough to accommodate everyone. The west tower, called Perseverance, was the first of the twin towers to be constructed. It was completed in 1841 and houses the great bell, which weighs 10,900 kg. A 10 bell carillon is housed in Temperance, the second tower, which was completed in 1843. The magnificent interior is sculpted in wood. Paintings, sculptures and stained glass windows illustrate biblical passages as well as 350 years of parish history. The organ has four keyboards, 99 stops and approximately 7,000 pipes.
Old Montreal allows you to wander down narrow, winding streets dating back to the origins of the French colony. There are many splendid buildings from the 1700’s and some of the most remarkable 19th century Victorian commercial buildings in North America. This charming historical setting has some superb public squares, five history museums, over thirty art galleries and numerous boutiques and sidewalk cafes.

Our tour also took us by the Biodome which recreates four of the finest ecosystems of the Americas, complete with plants, animals by the thousands, cliffs and waterways, and even the climate itself. A tour of the Biodome covers the lush, humid and hot tropical forest; the Laurentian Forest, where beavers, otters and lynx are waiting; the St. Lawrence Marine Ecosystem, with a basin of 2.5 million litres of salt water and which is home to an astounding variety of birdlife and underwater fauna; and finally, a visit to the two Poles with a chance to admire penguins and auks at the same time.

The Biodome stands in the shadows of the Montreal Tower at Olympic Park. Built for the 1976 Summer Olympic Games, the Olympic Stadium is the park’s centerpiece. It is topped by the tallest inclined tower in the world, Montreal Tower. After riding in a cable car up the incline, the Observatory provides a view on a clear day of up to 80 kilometers in every direction.

Mount Royal Park is affectionately referred to as “the Mountain” by locals and has become the preferred viewing spot for nature lovers, bird watchers and sports enthusiasts. The numerous paths and superb lookout points offer hours of recreation. Though we had a cloudy day, you could still see quite a bit of Montreal from the top of the park.

The same architect who designed Central Park in New York also designed Mount Royal. There are beautiful flower gardens throughout the park. Also, found on the slopes of Mount Royal are two of the city’s oldest cemeteries, Mount Royal which covers 165 acres and Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Cemetery which is Canada’s largest cemetery. Since 1854, more than 900,000 people have been buried there. Nearby on the parks outskirts, are the campuses of two universities as well as Saint Joseph’s Oratory which welcomes pilgrims annually. It is one of the world’s most visited shrines. The basilica’s huge dome reaches 97 meters and is second only in height to Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The shrine, devoted to Saint Joseph consists of a primitive chapel, a votive chapel, a crypt and a basilica large enough to accommodate 10,000 worshippers.
The road leading up to Mount Royal allows interesting views of homes costing upwards of a million dollars.

When the bus brought us back to the station, we decided to go to Dunn’s which was recommended by a lady who was born in Montreal. They make a sandwich called “smoked meat”, which we would probably call a Reuben in the States. A lady sat down next to us who was from Montreal and had been to Dunn’s many times. She told us how to order the sandwich and to have them exchange the fries for poutine fries (fries with a brown gravy and cheese curds). It was very delicious! We had had poutine fries out at the desert this year when Wally and Sam had made them for one of the happy hours. Then the lady said we couldn’t leave without having a piece of the Dunn’s special cheesecake! By the time we left, we could hardly waddle out! But it was delicious and we have now been thoroughly indoctrinated to French Canadian food.

Though the day was cloudy and rainy, we enjoyed the tour thoroughly and were very thankful that we did not have to drive ourselves into the city. After a full day of riding around and walking, we decided that we’d take a day off to catch up on some housekeeping items and relax before heading off to our last city, Old Quebec.

We’ve found the Province of Quebec to be a real challenge. Everything is written in French and that is most all that is spoken here. Many of the tourism employees will speak English but a lot of the residents either can’t or won’t speak English. The grocery stores are quite frustrating as all the aisles are labeled in French and we found ourselves going up and down all the aisles to look for the items we wanted. We’ve also found that things are getting more expensive the farther east we go in Canada. I think we will definitely be ready to start slowing down and taking life a little easier after our next few day in Old Quebec. We have decided to drive around the coastal road of Quebec to Perce and then on down to New Brunswick. We’re not sure what we will encounter, but we thought it would be a lovely drive and are looking forward to getting away from the cities. Of the three cities we have visited so far, Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal, - Ottawa is our most favorite. It is definitely the smaller of the three and has a nice mix of old and new. All signs are in both English and French and the Rideau Canal is a very beautiful walking, running, and biking trail. Large boats come down the canal, park and spend the evening in Ottawa.And of course, we loved the Beaver Tails which are whole wheat pastries stretched to the shape of a beaver’s tail and float cooked on Canola or Soya oil. They are served piping hot and topped with your choice of several delectable toppings such as cinnamon and sugar, chocolate, nuts, etc.

We’ll be looking forward to our next city visit in Old Quebec in the next few days so we hope you will join us. By the way, does anybody speak French????

Welcome to Canada's Parliament!!

We are staying at a campground quite a ways outside of Ottawa however, we were able to drive our truck about 12 miles to the local Wal-Mart, park and catch the bus which let us off right across the street from Parliament Hill. Bus cost was $3.00 one way per person. All of the tours are free and we didn’t have any trouble getting tickets for all three of the tours we wanted to take on the morning when we first arrived.

On this hilltop overlooking the Ottawa River, parliamentarians gather to make the laws of the land. The Parliament Buildings – which include the Centre Block, East Block and West Block – house the Senate and the House of Commons chambers, the Library of Parliament, and offices for parliamentarians and staff.

A little history for background information. Before Ottawa became the beautiful city it is today, it used to be a rough lumber town with roads of mud. In 1857, after years of indecision by “colonial” politicians, Queen Victoria chose this little lumber town as the capital of the Province of Canada (consisting at that time of what is today Quebec and Ontario). She made the choice from looking at a painting and based it the fact that it was in very close proximity to Quebec, and also that it lay a more secure distance from the American border as the U.S. was trying to annex Canadian property at that time. With the emergence of a new nation, the Fathers of Confederation decided that Canada’s head of state would be a monarch. Queen Victoria was adopted as the sovereign of Canada. Canada’s present queen is the sovereign not only of Canada and the United Kingdom, but also of 14 other countries that have similar political structures as that of Canada. When she visits one of these countries, she speaks and acts as queen of that country, and not as queen of the United Kingdom. As a constitutional monarch, the Queen acts solely on the advice of the ministers of the country concerned.

Every day during the summer months at 10:00 a.m., you can view the Changing of the Guards. The ceremony is a very stirring military drill set to the music of the Canadian Forces band. It takes place on Parliament Hill in front of the Centre Block. The Old Guard is inspected and then turns the key over to the New Guard. The ceremony lasts approximately 30 minutes. These guards also stand vigil over the Tomb on the Unknown Soldier.

The Centre Block, constructed between 1916 and 1922, is the home of the Senate and the House of Commons. It is here that national issues are investigated and where legislation is introduced, debated and revised and, once passed, becomes the law of the land. The Senate Chamber is located in the east half of the Centre Block. Its red carpeting and upholstery and a ceiling of gold leaf create an air of regal splendour. The names of former governors general are carved in the ceiling. The Chamber’s upper walls are lined with murals depicting stirring scenes from the First World War. Below them, images of Canada’s flora and fauna are carved in stone and wood. This room is where the Queen of Canada, or the Governor General, her representative, addresses Parliament and gives Royal Assent to bills destined to become law. At the north end of the Chamber is a raised platform with a pair of thrones, the larger of the two for the Queen or the Governor General and the smaller one for the spouse of either the Queen or the Governor General. For regular sitting of the Senate, the Speaker’s chair is placed in front of the thrones, but is removed when the Queen or her representative are present. Senators belonging to the governing political party in the House of Commons sit to the Speaker’s right. To the Speaker’s left sit those senators belonging to all other parties, including those who have chosen to sit as independent senators. Senate proceedings are open to both the public and journalists. When a bill is submitted, the Senate is the group who study it and make any recommendations for change before it becomes law. They also have “strike down” authority, to completely kill a bill that has been recommended. There are currently 105 Senators.

The House of Commons Chamber is located in the west half of the Centre Block. It is decorated in green carpeting and upholstery, in the tradition of the British House of Commons. The rectangular Chamber is made of white oak and Tyndall limestone from Manitoba. The Speaker is spokesperson and presiding officer of the House of Commons. A Member of Parliament chosen by fellow members through secret ballot, the Speaker ensures that all rules and procedures are followed and oversees the administration of the House. He sits in a throne chair at the head of the room. Stone carvings, stained glass windows and other artistic representations of Canada’s history decorate the Chamber, as a constant reminder of the Canadians that Members of Parliament represent and serve. There are currently 308 Members of Parliament in the House.

The Hall of Honour crosses through the center of the building. With its graceful arched ceilings and rich sculpture, it links all the elements of the Centre Block together and serves as a fitting setting for national commemorations and ceremonies. In front of the Centre Block stands the Peace Tower, the most striking feature and one of the most recognized symbols on Parliament Hill. The Peace Tower was named in commemoration of Canada’s commitment to peace. On the third floor is the Memorial chamber, a richly carved room of gently light built to honor Canadians who died in the armed conflicts in which Canada has fought since the Confederation. The 302 foot tower also contains an observation area and the Carillon, a series of 53 bells sounded from a keyboard. The largest bell weighs in at 22,400 pounds. The Dominion Carillonneur entertains visitors every day at 2:00 with regular recitals.

The Library of Parliament is at the end of the Hall of Honour. It is the only place that you are not allowed to take pictures inside and it is astounding. Its floor features a beautiful pattern of cherry, oak and walnut. Hundreds of flowers, masks and mythical creatures are carved in the paneling of white pine. In the center of the circular, domed room stands a white marble statue of the young Queen Victoria. When the fire started on February 3, 1916, a conscientious employee quickly shut the metal doors to the library. While other parts of the building were reduced to a charred shell, the library was spared, saving over half a million books and documents.

Our second tour was to the East Block which is primarily offices, however they have restored four rooms to look just as they did in 1872. Several people dressed in costumes showed up as we were touring and pretended to be characters of that period.

Our last tour of the day was the grounds. On both the second tour and this one, we were the only two people, so we had a private tour all to ourselves. Parliament Hill has been home to stray cats for decades. However, it is only since the 1970’s that volunteers have paid special care and attention to these animals: creating the “cat sanctuary”. All animals have been neutered to ensure the health and stability of the colony and have been inoculated against various diseases. The cats as well as pigeons, sparrows, squirrels, raccoons, chickadees, and even ground hogs, are fed on a daily basis. It costs $6,000 per year to take care of them. The Federal government does not contribute anything to this cost. It is primarily made up of contributions.

Also on the grounds is the Canadian Police and Peace Officers Memorial Honor Roll which pays tribute to the sacrifices of these brave men and women who were killed in the performance of their duty.

The Victoria Bell is also on display. This is the bell which was housed in the Victoria Tower at the time of the fire. Shortly after striking midnight, the Victoria Bell came crashing down into the building. It was later recovered from the ruins and put on display. The bell is mounted at an angle to symbolize the position it was in when it came crashing down at the stroke of midnight.

The Whisper Wall is also a rare oddity. When two people sit at either end of the wall and whisper, it sounds as if the voice is magnified. Another of those anomalies that can’t be explained.

At the foot of the central walk to the Parliament Buildings is the monument for commemorating Canada’s 100th anniversary of Confederation in 1967. The Centennial Flame is a permanent reminder of the unbounded optimism of the centennial year. Alberta natural gas feeds the flame that burns through the water which flows over the bronze shields of the provinces and territories that existed in 1967. Each of the twelve segments is also ornamented with the floral symbol and the date that the province or territory joined the Confederation.

A final sculpture is the Women are Persons! Five women are rejoicing over tea because of their victory in the Persons Case of 1929, a landmark step in Canadian women’s struggle for equality. These five women won a legal challenge to have women considered “persons” under the British North American Act, making them eligible for appointment to the Senate.

Well, as you can tell, it was another full and tiring day. Thankfully, the weather is holding up well and was not too hot. This is a beautiful city, more old and rustic, and Parliament Hill is a “must see”. We thoroughly enjoyed learning some of the history of Canada and hopefully understanding their Parliament a bit better.

During the summer months, they do a nightly sound and light show. The spirit of the nation is revealed through captivating music, shimmering lights and stunning giant projections on the Parliament Buildings. We hope to attend that tomorrow night. It is supposed to be spectacular!!!
We are now half way thru our “city life in Canada” tour and will be heading to Montreal and then over to Quebec to visit the last two cities before heading into the Maritimes. I think we will both be ready for some beautiful landscapes and a much slower pace of life. We hope you are enjoying each of these beautiful spots in Canada as much as we are and will continue to check us out from time to time to see what we’ve gotten into next. Til we can do the next blog, God be with each of you and may you experience life to the fullest!

Toronto, Canada - A Castle and a Museum!

On the brow of a hill, overlooking Toronto, the striking silhouette of a massive castle dominates the skyline and stirs the imagination. Based on a life-long fascination with European castles, Sir Henry Mill Pellatt, a prominent Canadian financier, industrialist, and military officer of the early twentieth century, borrowed the most pleasing elements of Norman, Gothic, and Romanesque styles to create Casa Loma. With more than 350,000 visitors annually, Casa Loma continues to be one of Toronto, Ontario’s premiere tourist attractions. From its imposing stone gates, to its magnificent gardens, terraced grounds, medievil turrets and 98 rooms, this fairytale castle is both impressive and bewildering: one cannot help but wonder about the kind of man who would build such a home for himself.

Born in Kingston, Ontario in 1859, Sir Henry Pellatt was the most dramatic Canadian of his day. He was a visionary, whether it was being first to bring electric lights to the streets of Toronto or the first to invest in a Canadian air service. He was a patriot and philanthropist, as commanding officer and private sponsor of the Queen’s Own Rifles, the Canadian regiment that still marches to this day. And he was a colossus in Canadian business, with interests in everything from insurance to railways. At his height, Sir Henry sat on dozens of corporate boards comprising fully 25% of Canada’s economy, a feat unmatched today. When he commissioned noted architect E. J. Lennox to help him realize a life-long dream – the creation of a “medieval” castle on the brow of a hill overlooking Toronto, it would be the largest home in Canada.

The construction began in 1911 and took 300 men nearly three years to complete at a cost of $3,500,000. Sir Henry and his beloved wife, Mary, filled the home with many treasured antiques and paintings.
The tour starts in the Great Hall, the central point of the castle, with its soaring 60 foot oak-beamed ceiling. It’s really a bargain at $11.00 a ticket for seniors over the age of 60. It is a self guided digital audio tour and takes you through the castle step by step. We marveled at the beauty of the stained glass dome in the castle’s Conservatory, discovered the Pellatt family crest in the Library ceiling, and observed the intricate carving of the paneled Oak Room. A serving room originally served two purposes. When formal dinners were held in the dining room, this room was used by servants as a serving room. Food was brought here from the kitchens, served on to plates, and then taken into the diners. At other times, this room was an intimate breakfast area for the Pellatts. A breath-taking view of the city rewarded us as we climbed up the turreted towers. There are secret stairways and a luxurious carriage room and stables connected to the castle by an 800 foot tunnel. The stables housed his prized horses and the stalls are constructed of Mahogany while the floors are clad in Spanish tiles.

Lady Pellatt’s suite reflected her love of pastel colors and was large enough to allow her to maneuver later in her life when she became wheelchair-bound. The original Gardens of Casa Loma were modeled after an English Gentleman’s Garden containing a series of parterres with gravel paths, vegetable gardens, flowers and fruit trees. A greenhouse complex, featuring a potting shed and conservatory served as a work area for a staff of three gardeners who tended to the magnificent grounds. Today, both formal and informal gardens adorn the beautifully landscaped grounds of this six acre estate. At every turn the senses are delighted by dancing fountains, unusual sculpture, and the dazzling, everchanging colors of a Canadian garden.
But the demands of maintaining his castle, combined with a series of ill-advised investments and the fall of the Home Bank of Canada, undid Sir Henry. He and Lady Mary were forced to leave Casa Loma and auction off their possessions to pay off his debts. In 1920, the City of Toronto raised taxes from $6,836 per year (in today’s dollars) to $116,891 per year (also today’s dollars). Lady Pellatt held the title to Casa Loma but at her death in 1924, the title reverted to Henry, making financial matters even worse. In 1930, after failed attempts to operate Casa Lomas as an exclusive apartment-hotel, the magnificent building sat vacant! In 1935 the City decided to take the cruel step of forcing the then 75 year old Pellatt into bankruptcy for back taxes. The City staff was aware that a declaration of bankruptcy would cause Sir Henry to lose his knighthood – a title that was very precious to him. The City purchased the estate for a grossly undervalued $27,305. Once the action was completed, a previously scheduled bankruptcy hearing was suddenly and permanently adjourned. Pellatt was able to retain his title of Knight Bachelor but at the cost of his million dollar estate! It is now owned by the City of Toronto and operated by the Kiwanis Club of Casa Loma and remains today as a monument to this extraordinary Canadian.

After spending four hours touring the castle and grounds, we have to admit that it is probably one of the best tours we have been on. We’ve been to the Vanderbilt Mansion, Hearst Castle, a Plantation home and now Casa Loma. For the price, you can’t find a better tour with more information.

Though we were tired, we decided to also tour the Royal Ontario Museum which is Canada’s largest museum of world cultures and natural history. It also ranks as the fifth largest museum in North America and contains more than six million items and over 40 separate galleries. It is truly a one-stop sightseeing extravaganza where you can travel from one amazing exhibit to the next to learn about the world’s history and culture. Dinosaurs, aquatic fossils, an ancient Egyptian mummy case, Greek and Roman Artifacts, Life in China, Korea, and Japan, and Canada’s First Peoples are just some of the options. Another four hours and we just were able to walk thru all the exhibits. It is easily a two day event if you truly wanted to delve into everything. The building’s latest addition is built in the shape of a crystal and provides a very picturesque façade for the museum. Once again, if you like museums, this is a must-see!

We drug our worn-out bodies back to the subway – fortunately it wasn’t far from the museum – and rode home. Tomorrow we will be heading out and arriving at Ottawa for another fun-packed three days. See you down the road!